The Temperament test….

There is certain qualities when selecting a dog, whether it be for a companion, working dog or sports dog that are non-negotiable in the list of priorities…. health and temperament have got to be the top of the chart.

The issue of health can be controversial and luck plays a huge part in the lottery that comes with selecting a dog. Even with the best intentions, you can still be dealt a bad hand. This is a discussion for a later time. However the topic of temperament is something we can certainly be more aware of, and placing more emphasis on its importance can definitely have a far wider reaching affect.

The importance of a Sound temperament cannot be over estimated. Simple.

A sound temperament doesn’t necessarily mean the dog has to be overly social. It can be aloof or indifferent to people, but still have a sound disposition. And a sound temperament doesn’t mean the dog doesn’t have drive nor an ‘edge’. All great dogs have an ‘edge’ to their personality, not unlike supreme athletes or high achievers, it what makes them so great, but being a ‘nice’ goes a long way.

It means that the core make up of the dog is solid and even.

It can literally change your life to have a dog that doesn’t have a sound nature. It can affect your life choices, it can affect relationships, it can change your home dynamics…. it can alter where you socialise, what you do, where you walk etc.

Temperament can be improved and worked on, with effective training and socialisation. However the power of genetics cannot be over looked.

Often, the concept of a sound Temperament can be over looked in preference to other ‘attributes’, such as aesthetic characteristics or physical attributes. It is quite common to see criteria for matching perspective mates, pardon temperamental flaws in favour of attributes that will lead to ‘success’ in a chosen sport of competition field. However, often this is a false illusion.

A dog with a clear head and sound mental state, makes life so much easier. Having to train your dog to be comfortable in various environments, accept other dogs, people, things, animals can be time consuming and extensive. Although socialisation is a key part of any responsible dog owner, it can be a long term project even for a well adjusted dog. Having to do additional work to create a dog that can just cope with life, requires commitment, compassion, patience and time. Having a the core dog have a stable and sound temperament allows you to focus on the specific task or training that you wish to pursue. Temperament is so crucial.

The advances of dog training, has improved our ability to understand and deal effectively with issues that our dogs have. Better understanding has also meant that a lot of dogs that previously wouldn’t have been able to cope with the rigours of daily life, and specifically competition, have successfully over come these challenges. However this is largely down to great dog training. It shouldn’t be misconstrued that this is the core dog.

It has been argued that better dog training could eventually lead to ‘weaker’ dogs. Dogs that are robust and resilient, even when they have poor information and faced with adversity or punishment, tend to have temperaments that can accommodate for this. If these dogs are resilient to poor methods of training, the likelihood is that they will be capable of withstanding the rigours of daily life, with little additional training.

Think about it. Training that didn’t acknowledge the ‘dog’ meant that the core dog had to resilient, even tempered, biddable, and good natured. These dogs in turn would be the more successful and therefore more likely to be bred from. The dogs were good despite us, not because of us.

As, more knowledge and understanding of effective training becomes the norm, it is achievable to overcome ‘issues’ with dogs, so therefore these dogs are likely to be successful and therefore bred on from. However the core make up of the dog, still has ‘issues’. As each subsequent generation follows, these issues may be doubles or combined.

So how do we continue to progress in our understanding of training and behaviour, whilst still breeding and creating dogs that are mentally sound?

Easy. Keep temperament as a priority.

Having a dog that can run a hundred miles per hour, or moves flamboyantly for obedience, or has an insatiable desire to work is fantastic but overlooking temperamental issues, can ultimately hinder these attributes being of any worth.

A dog that has the physical ability to run and jump with more speed then any other, is fruitless if the dog is likely to fear or have aggression issues towards people or other dogs. Imagine going to a competition where there are hundreds of dogs all in relatively close proximity, and your dog is so struck by fear it can’t leave your side… or so aggressive, it can’t be trusted off leash? Yes, both these can be ‘fixed’ with effective dog training, but this is A LOT of work before even contemplating any of the basics, let alone the ‘sexy’ stuff.

A dog with a fearful nature or nervous deposition can be affected by environments. Just think of all the challenges a dog will face at a dog show, or even going to a pub for a drink, or down the local shops.

For years the Guide Dogs for the Blind, have successfully bred generation after generation of dogs, where health and temperament were an absolute priority due to the task that they were due to undertake. They consistently breed dogs that can do the task that they were destined for, are healthy and also have a sound temperament. Of course they produce the occasional dog were genetics don’t match or mix, however the high rate of consistency of creating a dog that is able to undergo the rigours of being a fully operational guide dog, cannot be over looked. They have kept health and temperament as the basis of their breeding programme.

The majority of us, have dogs as our companions and pets first and foremost. So having a sound temperament is going to serve you far greater then the trade off, of having a great working/sports dog that doesn’t. The small window of time spent in the competition arena, cannot outweigh the day to day interaction with that same dog.

And when the prospect of a successful competitive career could be hinder or not even started due to an injury or stroke of bad luck, having a dog that you can enjoy and live with should always be at the forefront of you mind when looking for, breeding from or buying a dog.

It is the age old argument of ‘nature’ vs nurture’. And mother nature knows best.

A chip isn’t necessarily a crack…

The final part of this series on causes of reactivity, is the issue of trauma.

This is the area of the conversation relating to ‘reactivity’ that invokes the most emotion, and this is an issue that requires both sensitivity and an open mind.

The question of trauma relates to two aspects of the relationship.

The dog and the owner. And what constitutes trauma can differ from one individual to another.

Dogs are amazing at moving forward and often the trauma they are subjected to can be resolved quicker then the impact it has on the owner. Trauma can be long lasting, and go far deeper then the physical impact. The mental impact of trauma can be much harder to resolve.

Even when the damages of physical trauma have gone, the injuries may still be present. It is a wise measure to have your dog checked over by a chiropractor or osteopath post an incident.

Here is a story that that really articulates trauma, and the ability to overcome it.

My friend and student Lou Holmes, had that once in a lifetime dog who was an amazing search and rescue dog… and when she had the opportunity to have a puppy from the repeat litter, she jumped at the chance.

‘Chip’ was different from his brother, on the day he was collected… when Lou let him in the garden, it took 3hrs to get him to come out from hiding… he was incredibly nervous and frightened. He was scared of everything, people and dogs. This was partly genetic, as years later, 3 of his siblings were put to sleep due to temperament issues and medical issues…

At 10wks old, ‘Chip’ was attacked and mauled by another dog. He had 32stitches…. He had half his face literally torn off. The sight of her precious puppy in blood, and only just being able to save him from being totally massacred etched in her mind.

For the next 10 months, Chip’s traumatic experience hindered him even getting out of the car. He literally wouldn’t get out of the vehicle unless Lou was on her own.

At this point, Lou questioned his future… was her puppy ever going to be a ‘happy’ dog….was he even going to lead a  ‘normal’ life?

Lou had to re-build Chips confidence from the ground up. Any flicker of it that he had, was in tatters. Literally. This was a dog that was destined to be ‘reactive’.

You couldn’t get a more traumatic series of events. How would you even begin to contemplate rebuilding your dogs confidence and your confidence after something so horrendous? Whats best for the dog? Do you make an effort to avoid any people or dogs, so that he never has to be in that state of fear? Do you only go out early hours of the morning or late at night? Do you even take the dog out at all? Do you even try? Would it be better to have the dog put to sleep? Is life just TOO scary? Are they likely to be so reactive we can never lead a ‘normal’ life?’

These are questions that people ask themselves when faced with the issues of having a reactive dog that has been born out of trauma. And this isn’t even the trauma the owner has undergone.

Well lucky Lou didn’t read this blog…..

For 10months, Lou took Chip with her when she went search and rescue training with Brock. And for 10months, Chip didn’t want to leave the vehicle.

However at 10months, for the first time… Chip manage to get out of the vehicle. Lou never forced him, never ‘made’ him deal with life until he was ready. After 10months, he said he was ready. He ventured out of the vehicle enough to just stand there…not to engage with anyone or anything, but just be.

Lou had the sense to allow him the time and space to let her know when he was ready to progress. He made slow and steady progress, and with patience, kindness and love Chip slowly began to regain the flicker of confidence he had had and lost.

Then one day, Lou decided he was ready to see if the confidence he managed to muster up, was enough to channel into a vocation.

She tentatively gave a colleague his food bowl, and asked them to venture across the car park. Watching Chip go over that car park to the person with the food bowl, was a moment that will resonate with Lou forever. It was like a parent watching a child take their first steps. Chip took the giant leap forward in rebuilding his confidence, he took the food from the bowl. They weren’t allowed to touch him or look at him, but it was a start.

Each session built from this one. Having people feed Chip, allowing him to progress at his own rate, and using reinforcement slowly but surely started to change the ‘picture’ for Chip.

Within four months, Chip had gone from tentatively going across a car park to a bowl with food… to a fully qualified search and rescue dog. At the grand old age of 12yrs old, Chip is still a serving search and rescue dog with a history of successful searches. He is an amazing family pet and helps other dogs with their confidence issues. He is an ambassador for those who overcome struggles, showing what can be achieved with dedication, patience and belief. Refusing to accept the labels and stigma attached to trauma and adversity, rising like a Phoenix from the flames.

Lou refused to accept that Chip would be a reactive dog, this was his story. Lou refused to listen.

Being traumatised may be the outcome of an event, and justifiably so. But through counter conditioning, reinforcement, and ‘listening’ to the dog…. Chip has shown what can be achieved. And Lou has shown what can be done, when you don’t hold onto a story.

Reactivity isn’t a permanent state of being, you can change the ‘label’.

Physical education….

When discussing reactivity issues in dogs, the last two headings cannot be over estimated enough.

Physical issues are often the case of many behavioural problems.

There are two facets to physical issues that create issues of reactivity in dogs.

The first aspect of ‘physical’ issues, isn’t really an issue but a commitment. This is the question of does your dog have enough physical stimulation and exercise.

This is a subject I feel so passionate about. I feel strongly about exercising my dogs, regardless of the weather, day, amount of time i have…I walk my dogs…

A conservative day, would be just an hour walk. But this would be a rarity. Generally, speaking I would walk my dogs for at least 90mins. And there is walking your dogs, and there is WALKING your dog. I make an effort to make the walk an ‘adventure’. I picked the steepest hill, the most wooded area, beaches to go swimming, or a lake to dive in…. I like to vary the walks I take my dogs on. I LOVE to walk them, as much for my peace of mind as theirs. There is nothing more gratifying then walking up the Sussex downs, after a long day at the ‘office’. I am blessed to live in an area where I can walk in a different setting every day, and not see a single soul. However, this wasn’t always the case and my commitment to walking my dogs was still paramount. Even when I lived in my two bed flat in London with 5 dogs, I walked them religiously. I made the commitment to do so. In London, I didn’t have the ‘luxury’ of not meeting people, if I choose not to. I had to ‘run’ the gauntlet of over friendly labradors, and out of control cockerpoo’s on a daily basis….

My walks aren’t always about physical challenging my dogs, sometimes its about letting them explore, sniff, root around just be dogs. Letting them get the wind under their tail, tear around at top speed…. physical exercise increases endorphins, which in themselves are addictive and give you the feel good factor…. for dogs that have confidence issues, exercise can literally change their demeanour.

Try to vary your walks… variety is the spice of life. Invest in your recall, so that you can allow your dog freedom, when and where appropriate. Pent up physical energy can manifest itself in behavioural issues, ensure that you alleviate that as a probability.

The other aspect of physicality that can affect issues of ‘reactivity’, is physical well being and soundness. If your dog has pain, discomfort or an underlying physical issue, this could trigger an outburst of aggression of defensiveness. Thyroid issues have been shown to create aggression, if you dog suddenly has a out of character reaction, consider pain as a cause or reason. Subtle physical changes in coat, movement, posture and energy may indicate a underlying physical issue, which may manifest itself as reactivity. Imagine how you feel if you have a headache, and someone is full of energy trying to clamber all over you…

Ensuring your dog is physically fit and sound, by regular exercise, and consulting professionals is a wise investment. Prevention is better then cure, when it comes to physical fitness. Chiropractors, Osteopaths, acupuncture, hydrotherapy, laser treatment are all great ways to ensure your dog is in the best of physical health.

Physical well being and mental well being are interlinked…. ensure you work at both.

Would you bet you a thousand bucks?

Would you bet you a thousand bucks….

Following on from the series on Reactivity in dogs, the third in the topic is understanding. Obviously there are numerous layers to the concept of understanding… does the dog understand signals given by other dogs does the dog understand men in black hats, does the dog understand umbrellas etc, and that is all very relevant. But for me, I will include this in the heading of socialisation.

In this context, the question of understanding relates to trained behaviour.

How well does your dog understand behaviours such as ’sit’? How well does your dog understand a recall? Can the dog do it under distractions? Can your dog do it in different environments? Can your dog do it with arousal? And so on and so on.

This is a conversation relating to ‘dog training’, rather then ‘behaviour’ as such, but the two are related as we well know.

Whenever someone attests that their dog ‘definitely’ knows what they are doing, I ask them to place a bet on the likelihood of their dog doing it, to the sum of £1000…. suddenly you see their certainty wain…..

There is no shame in identifying gaps in your dogs understanding…..its allows for growth and stronger foundations from which to build a dog that is well adjusted.

Under the heading of ‘understanding’, two areas that need to be considered are ‘proofing, and ‘generalisation’.

Proofing is challenging your dogs understanding and may/could create some confusion, anxiety and doubt in your dog….. this can be territory that people avoid for fear of undermining their dogs confidence. However if done strategically, and in layers…. the dog should have clarity and confidence.

Generalisation is taking your dog training on the road…. location, location, location…. the more places you can take your training and in as many locations that you can access, the better.

So this is a question of chicken at the egg, when it comes to the discussion of reactivity issues. How do you get your dog out to new locations, if they are likely to ‘react’ and you can’t control the environment?

Firstly, start at home. Train behaviours in as many places around your own home as you can. Train in the front garden, back garden, bathroom, living room etc….. then ask a friend if you can train at their home, in their garden etc…. you are building your dogs understanding, and more importantly your confidence.

Proofing is a process. You are testing your dogs understanding, and potentially undermining it. So tread carefully. Proof in increments, and always balance out success and failure. Too much of either can damage what you have created.

Having a strong understanding of behaviours, with distractions that you can control, will benefit you when you venture out in the ‘real’ world. If your dog can hold a sit, whilst have a ball thrown, a fast moving toy in front of them, or treats thrown around…. sitting whilst another dog walks past at a distance, becomes more achievable in time. The beauty of having distractions you can control, is that you can drip feed information and do numerous sessions throughout the day. Split and don’t lump behaviours, break the challenges down.

Socialising sensibly

The second topic in the series of blog posts looking at ‘reactivity’, is ‘socialisation.

This in itself is a vast and meaty topic, and one that could be the source of many lengthy discussions…

For the purpose of this blog, and the series… the conversation will be restricted to its relationship to ‘reactive’ behaviour.

Following my initial post, I wish to clarify that the list is in no particular order. Each one is dependent on the individual circumstances and dog. In fact, it isn’t a case of one contributing cause. It could be a combination of several. Or indeed overlaps.

Socialisation, or the lack of, or inappropriate socialisation is most definitely a common factor for dogs that have issues of being ‘reactive’ to other dogs. This reaction may have initially been born from excitement, fear, aggression etc. But the defining factor is the manner in which the dog displays anxiety, concern, fear, excitement etc is deemed as a) inappropriate or b) unwanted.

I cannot over emphasise the need to appropriately socialising your dog, with as many different dogs, breeds, genders, ages, size, shapes and colours….

I genuinely believe that each specific breed or type have a distinct dialect with which they engage. So for example, german shepherds ‘speak’ german shepherd, beagles speak ‘beagle’, border collies speak ‘border collie’ etc…. you get the jist. But each breed or type have their own specific manner in which they interact and engage, in addition to the standard obvious methods of canine communication. As a result, if your dogs hasn’t met or experienced different ‘cultures’, they at best may take a moment to adjust and decipher what is being said, and at worst… show fear and apprehension at this ‘foreign’ tongue.

As an owner, it is my responsibility to ensure that I make a concerted effort to socialise my dog with as many different breeds, types etc as I can. I know from first hand experience that dogs don’t read and understand ‘boxers’. It is not unusual for dogs to randomly fly out at him when he is totally oblivious to them. So as a precautionary measure, I made a concerted effort to socialise ‘Punch’ with as many different dogs as possible.

The reasoning could be a partly by the stigma attached to the breed, and a reluctance to socialise your puppy with one because of it, which creates a pattern associated with all of that breed… then similar breeds etc…then dogs that look like that breed.. or that colour….

Or that you don’t know any dogs of that breed…. so your dog doesn’t quite understand the idiosyncrasy of that specific breed.

The resulting outcome of this ‘breedism’, is that there is a mis-communication when two dogs of different breeds interact. For example, my border collies think nothing of running super fast and nipping each others heels… quite a common border collie trait…. and with each other, its absolutely accepted that this is a ‘game’. However, for my boxer or malinois… this is fighting talk… or could be if they hadn’t spent hours and hours playing and running with border collies.

Socialisation needs to be perceived as a training entity, with as much thought put into it as if you were teaching your dog to do a complex behaviour chain.

The ‘lessons’ need to be thought out, planned and strategic….. The interaction supervised and manage. And allow your dog  space and time to work it out. This doesn’t mean sit back and let things unfold, but don’t rush in too fast. You could be interfering a lesson being learnt or taught. Watching two puppies interact is one of the most interesting and enthralling lessons, you’ll ever learn. Watching dogs be dogs is filled with life lessons. This requires access to well rounded dogs, with great social skills. They are out there. Just reach out.

Socialising requires commitment and last for longer then you’d actually think. You need to work at it. Play dates are a great investment of your time, effort and energy. It would be more beneficial to spend an hour socialising with a well rounded dog with great social skills, then walking in a park where you can’t control the dogs and environment.

Reinforce the appropriate interaction, don’t take it for granted that your dog has great social skills.

Build up to interaction if your dog needs time and space. Reinforcement is key. Reinforcement all the nuances of behaviour that lead up to great interaction….it shouldn’t take an explosion, to get a reaction from you. Reinforce the increments of what you want, and take your time. It isn’t a quick fix, small project to have a well adjusted dog. Its a marathon… not a sprint.

Its never too late, to socialise. Even, if you feel you have missed that crucial moment. It may take longer, and more patience… but its worth the investment.

Its not you, it REALLY is the dog…..

Following on from my blog discussing the concept of the ‘reactive’ dog, the first cause of ‘reactivity’ is ‘Genetics’.

And here’s the best bit…. for this we can definitely blame the dog! Its most definitely the dogs genetics at play, rather then yours…. however I am sure in certain cases, YOUR genetics may be a contributing factor 😉

Well when I say its the dogs fault… thats not strictly true…. We, as humans have to take some responsibility.

If we look at all the ‘groups’ of dog breeds we have created, they all have a distinct purpose and vocation….even breeds that may have been bred to be companions would have originally derived from the same source.

Dogs are predators and its this predatory response that we have harnessed and turned into usable traits for OUR lives.

So the urge to chase, stalk, hunt and kill has been refined to herding, gathering, collecting and being an aid for our survival. They have been selected to protect us, and our property….our families and material items…..

So we created specific breeds or types with a purpose, a vocation, a role and a distinct agenda. We selected the individuals who most exhibited these traits, and bred from them to enhance and exaggerate these traits, so that they would have an aptitude to do the ‘job’ with ease and little influence from us.

We pointed the pup toward sheep, and he instantly started to stalk them and move them around a field…. we throw an object into long grass, and he fastidiously hunted and searched until he found it. We selected, crafted and created the perfect tool for the job. If you need a hammer to bang in a nail, you’d select the appropriate materials…. we need the same with breeds and types of dogs.

Because the role of ‘companion’ came as a by-product of the need to work ‘together’ and spend a considerable amount of time together in the ‘field’, the notion of the dog being a domesticated pet in our home was born.

Of these dogs, there would be certain characteristics and attitude to work that would be sought after. Those hunting, seeking, gathering and guarding would need to have a deep desire to perform the same task repeatedly for hours, days, weeks, months and years, again and again. The desire to perform this task would have to be so strong that they would be willing to perform in all conditions, irrespective or physical discomfort, pain, distraction and with little reinforcement other then the job itself. We see this same level of intensity in sports athletes, high performing business people, Type A personalities.

We ultimately created our own demon though. We have created an animal with the want, need and desire to do a job…. but when those instinctive hard wired traits are not understood or satisfied, we see ‘reactivity’ and behavioural issues. It doesn’t matter if the individual dog is one of these breeds or a combination of a few…. the instinct is still within the dog. With crosses or mixes, you may even have several traits from several breeds.

Its the same with people. When I worked with young offenders, those that were often the most problematic were often the brightest, most energetic and brilliant minds… but as the saying says, ‘the devil make work for idle hands’…..

Your herding breed that reacts to fast movings things, is doing what s/he should do… we wanted it!

The guarding breed that barks menacingly and aggressively at the innocent jogger, is doing what we bred them to do….

The gundog that has been bred to dive into thick bramble and undergrowth to get a dead bird, has to have a strong desire for the ‘thing’ it happens to find… but when that thing happens to be your childs toy, and the dog doesn’t want to give it up or allow anyone else to take it, we have to take responsibility.

These are just a few examples of the various issues that we have inadvertently created.

Often these traits and instinct conflict with our expectations of the domestic companion. I have discussed in previous blogs, in what we essentially want from a domestic dog is to be inconspicuous and docile to anything and everything.

Well that wasn’t part of the contract which we agreed on hundred’s of years ago.

So, how do we deal with genetics? And is it actually even possible??

Well in short the answer is yes, of course it is. I have lived my life with numerous dogs, who on paper should have had severe behavioural issues, and they have all been well adjusted family pets.

Firstly, understand, honour and appreciate what you have in your dog. Its this genetics that make him/her who and what they are. Its what makes them so amazing. Your border collie that obsessively wants to chase cars, or bikes… is a result of years of selection for those traits! Isn’t that amazing! We have managed to change the desire to kill something into a visible act of self control and purpose.

Secondly, appease the desire and instinct. Don’t try and fight it. Don’t try and make your introvert child an exhibitionist, and don’t try and make your flamboyant party goer, a wall flower…. accept them for who and what they are. Don’t try and create calm, without satisfying your dogs more primal needs. Calmness is a outcome of satisfaction, mentally and physically.

Find a medium or outlet for that energy. So if your border collie likes to run and chase, find a safe and productive way for this to be utilised.

If your gun dog wants to search and find things, play search games in long grass with a ball…. your terrier wants to hunt, try some scent work….

Guarding instinct is often the most difficult to appease, due to its conflicting nature of what the dog would find an outlet for this desire versus what is compliant with our human existence. The other instinctive traits can largely be expelled in a safe and constructive manner. Guarding is often the hardest.

If your guarding dog wants to bark at strangers, ensure that you socialise them with as many people as possible, in a safe and constructive manner. Ensure that you have clear boundary training in place and expel their energy on a daily basis.   Additionally ensure that you are clear with your perimeter of when it is acceptable to be a vigilant guard and not necessary when you are having a coffee at the local cafe.

Focus on the behaviour you do want, from your dog don’t take it for granted when you dog ‘ignores’ another dog, or fast moving item… even if its 200m away….dont take it for granted when you dog ignores the cyclist, or greets another dog appropriately…reinforcement is key…..

Be realistic about your expectations and manage them. Your dogs instinct is hardwired in their DNA. Expecting your shetland sheepdog to stop herding is like expecting a eagle not to fly or a salmon not to swim. If they happen to herd the hoover, either train them to stay on a bed when this happens, put them in another room or ignore it…. or better still… don’t do housework!!!! Hooray!!! Always a silver lining!

Do you homework about what your dog is, and whether thats ‘really ’what you want…. what you see on TV isn’t necessarily the reality. Be honest with yourself of your limitations and get the dog that suits your lifestyle, and what you need… seeing someone else with the finished productive doesn’t mean you’ll get the same end product.

And finally, teach, train and educate your dog about how you want them to be, and navigate this weird and wonderful life…. Its not easy, it is your role to create a relationship based on trust, clarity and where needed… boundaries. At the end of the day, we have brought these amazing animals into our lives, to enrich them, give us joy and happiness…..its the least we can do to teach them what we want and accept them for who they are.

‘Everybody is a Genius. But If You Judge a Fish by Its Ability to Climb a Tree, It Will Live Its Whole Life Believing that It is Stupid’. (Albert Einstein)

Quick reactions…

The notion of a ‘reactive’ dog has become more and more common, with varying degrees of understanding and knowledge about a) what is a reactive dog b) how to deal with it.

In the time that I have been training dogs, there has been many methods come and go and phases in how we approach and train dogs.
Along with these trends, we have concepts and phrases that have been born from these.

The most common phrase I hear when teaching all over the world, is the word ‘reactive’. I am constantly engaging with ‘reactive’ dogs, and being asked to assist with those that have issues of reactivity.

What I am seeing more and more, is a lack of understanding of what it is and how to deal with it.

In this short series, I am going to discuss the most common causes of ‘reactivity’…. what it 'REALLY’ is and how we can resolve it.

By definition, reactive means to ‘show a response to a stimulus’, so in essence all of us and our dogs are ‘reactive’. I have previously written a blog discussing ‘labelling’ your dogs, and the label ‘reactive’ seems to be used more and more.

Years ago we didn’t have ‘reactive’ dogs…. we had dogs that were ‘aggressive’, ’scared’, ‘not friendly’, ‘naughty dogs’, ‘dominant dogs’…. the list goes on. But the terms were probably fair more descriptive, whether they were an accurate assessment was another issue…. But what they did, was give some indication of what the dog was likely to do.

However, it appears that we have become fear of calling a spade a spade, and possibly a little political correctness influencing our use of certain words….

So the term ‘reactive’ has become a generic term for anything from over enthusiasm to fear…. Without clear indication as to the specifics.

When someone ‘labels’ their dog ‘reactive’ it gives me little indication of to the specific problem, and therefore how to help them. I always urged people to call it as it is, and be ok with that. No shame, no judgement, just acknowledgement and awareness. Your dog having a reaction to something that has caused them fear, worry, excitement or apprehension is ok….its a dog being a dog. It doesn’t mean that this is a permanent state of existence. It doesn't make you or them, bad. Its not about blame.

Is the dog ‘reactive’ because it is over enthusiastic, the issue and approach to resolution would be greatly different to the dog that is fearful and defensive.

However the outcome of the dogs behaviour can often be whittled down to the same issue, the owner/handler feeling helpless and out of control.

This can develop into an anxiety transmitted down the lead, which can further endorse the feeling of helplessness and being out of control. And before you know it, the small inappropriate response to a dog sticking their nose where it's not wanted, with a completely appropriate doggy response of 'F'off, thats rude!', develops into a life changing cycle and downward spiral.

So why are dogs 'reactive'?

Here are the most common reasons why we see reactive dogs.

A) Genetics

B) socialisation

C) understanding

D) Physical

E) Trauma

Over the next 5 days I will explain each one and possible solutions to each variation.

For now, consider re-labelling your 'reactive' dog… the first step to moving forward is acknowledgement and acceptance. Its ok, and if it isn't… it will be.